Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

As we continued our journey through the Gulf of Corinth, we only stayed on the Greek mainland side. The destinations on the Peloponnese side are less interesting and there are no good anchorages or marinas. Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

Galaxidi

After passing through the Corinth Canal, we headed for Galaxidi, 40 nm away. The galactic name could hardly be less fitting for the small town of 1,500 inhabitants. What sounds like a hyped coastal town is actually a small, sleepy village on a headland between two bays, opposite a pine forest and sleepy nature. Tavernas by the water, a church on a hill and a few small shops provide the essentials. A really nice, unagitated little place. However, it is also the culinary low point of our trip so far. On the dock, directly opposite the pavilion, there is the Abovo Restaurant, which serves delicious food. The other restaurants? Honestly, you couldn’t cook worse yourself if you tried. Or as our friend Marc says: “I’ve eaten worse, but only once.

On the way to Galaxidi, you head for the bay of Itea, at the end of which lies the small town of Itea. Itea is a town of 4,500 inhabitants, with a somewhat shabby harbour and considerably less protection from swell than Galaxidi. There is also a ok corniche there, but it is an unremarkable little town only for the inhabitants, not for tourists. Incidentally, Galaxidi doesn’t have any tourism either. Back to the approach. In Itea Bay, keep to portside, pass two small islands and then head for the headland with the little village. There you have the choice between a community dock on the left or an anchorage on the right. Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

   

The village of Galaxidi and a memorial to the women and children of the seamen who remained ashore

We anchored with a maximum of 15 other boats in front of the town at a depth of 7 metres. We didn’t fancy the town dock and preferred a cooling breeze at anchor to chain salad on the community dock. In fact, a breeze is very pleasant, because all days are now well above 30 degrees and even at night its above 20 degrees. Summer in Greece.

It was my first swimming trip. The water temperatures have risen on my personal scale from ‘character-building’ to ‘invigorating’ and so my water season has started, a few weeks after Ka. The seabed in Galaxidi is muddy, so the water is not as clear as usual in Greece, but good for a swim and for making fresh water.

Breathtaking: View of Itea and Galaxidi (far back top left) with the largest olive grove (all green are olive trees)

Delphi – without the oracle Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

The Rivercafe was well located and safe, so we hired a car and drove 35 minutes into the mountains to Delphi. The route alone is worth the drive. It first leads along the bay, then through the largest olive grove in Greece with almost 1 million trees and finally into the mountains – with spectacular views up to the impressive mountain world of Delphi. Anyone who comes here for the oracle is 1,600 years too late. he oracle’s been out of business since the 4th century. Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

Instead of prophecies, you will find a very beautiful historical site, well preserved and worth a visit and €20 entrance fee. Good shoes and water are recommended, as it is over 100 metres uphill from the bottom to the ancient stadium located in the mountain. The stadium looks as if you could organise competitions right away. We followed the advice of sailors and were there at 8.00 am – before hordes of tourists arrive in buses, 800,000 a year – just as many as in Olympia. Between 8 and 9 am we were almost alone.

Delphi: stadium, temple remains and theatre in an imposing mountain setting

As in Olympia, Delphi also hosted festivals and competitions every four years: the Pythian Games, named after the snake killed by Apollo. Unlike in Olympia, the sporting competitions were accompanied by cultural competitions with theatre, song and dance – and a few other disciplines. This was probably thanks to Apollo, the son of Zeus and the god responsible for the arts – and much more besides.

Trizioni

We spent a few days in Galaxidi before setting off for our next destination: the small island of Trizioni, 20 nm further towards the end of the Gulf of Corinth and 500 metres from the mainland. There is relatively little anchorage off the island because it is either too shallow, too deep or too narrow. A small harbour has room for about 15 guest boats, the rest are mainly decaying permanent moorings. There is also anchorage space for about 5 boats in the harbour entrance. We moored at a dock without water – a dry dock 🙂

Trizioni probably has the highest density of tavernas per inhabitant ever: 7.8. The 55 inhabitants have 7 tavernas to choose from. A small water taxi brings guests from the mainland and a few sailors are sure to help occupy the chairs in the beautiful bay right on the water with a view of the mainland. Trizioni is incomparable – simply beautiful.

Trizioni, the place where tranquillity was invented

We swam around an offshore island, walked the maximum possible 7 kilometres once around the island and enjoyed the greatest possible tranquillity that a place can offer. Funnily enough, it was here that we met our Swedish sailing friends Margarete and Dan and got to know the Germans Doris and Peter. Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

If you have time, a few days in Trizioni are highly recommended. A small hotel is being built on the waterfront for non-sailors, simple but nice and very relaxed.

Nafpaktos

Our last destination in the Gulf of Corinth was a big city compared to Trizioni. After 15 nm we were almost at the end of the gulf, in the town of Nafpaktos with its 12,000 inhabitants. There is a very unusual ‘harbour’ there, an ancient roundabout within the city walls. Unprotected and very cool. But I’m sure that two anchored vessels are already having to throw their anchor chains over each other because it’s so narrow. Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

We favoured an anchorage and dropped anchor in the muddy bottom in front of the city, right next to the city walls. On our way through the Corinth Canal, we enjoyed nothing but calm flat waters. Not so in Nafpaktos. The anchorage is not well protected and with 20 knots of wind and suitable swell, the Rivercafe did a few stretching exercises. After the silence of recent times, the noise of a city and car traffic was very unusual for us. How quickly you get used to silence. Galaxidi Delphi Trizioni and Nafpaktos

Nafpaktos. The bay, Rivercafe in front of the harbour, fortress at sunset, the fortress with a view of the bridge of Patras, Ka’s break after the ascent

Pure luck for us: the blue dot is us, with plenty of lightning strikes all around us

Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Ottomans fought over this city in a strategically favourable location, hence the enormous fortress. Our friends Margarete and Dan were also here and with both (Dan is a hiking machine), we climbed the 150 metres to the umpteenth fortress of our trip. The view over the city, to the bridge of Patras and back into the gulf was well worth the workout.

The evenings in Nafpaktos are very charming. The tavernas in the town, on the fortress wall and by the water are filled with Greeks. Greek music can be heard, which sounds so pleasantly more harmonious than the monotonous music so often played in the (few) beach clubs. The fortress walls are festively illuminated, creating a wonderful summer night atmosphere. Until the wind and waves become increasingly unpleasant. As the wind constantly exceeded 20 knots, the waves also became more and more annoying. Five boats held out a little longer, but then everyone – like us – set off as if on a starting signal and fled to their respective new destinations. / Holger Binz