A sailing season in Greece

Our fourth season with the Rivercafe has come to an end. This year was different from the previous ones. It was a year of short distances with only one overnight. A year with lots of visitors, plenty of moussaka and not a single fish caught. A sailing season in Greece

Pleased with the opportunity to see family and friends in Europe, we suggested everyone fly in and out of Kefalonia. Intrigued by the flight connections, we overlooked the fact that we had to stay within sailing range of Kefalonia for the season with the Rivercafe. The Rivercafe as a Circle Line. After all, we now know the Ionian Sea quite well and have one point back at the top of our list of things to do: more flexible travelling times and flexible pick-up locations for our friends.

Autumn in Greece

Autumn is now taking over in Greece, just like everywhere else in northern Europe, only a little warmer and sunnier. Still 25 degrees during the day in mid-October is not too bad. The trees change colour, the nights and the sea cool down considerably. The winds become more changeable and sometimes fierce. A

sailing

Season is over

It has been lonely on the islands since the beginning of October. During our last few days of sailing, we were mostly alone at our anchorages, with little life ashore. Very few boats are still out and about and most of the tavernas have already closed. Shops and hotels are shutting down and the sidewalks roll up early. A little dreariness has returned, the melancholy charm of autumn, albeit in the sunshine. Autumn would be a beautiful time to visit the islands, but without hotels and tavernas it would be quite challenging. Many Greeks are now busy harvesting olives from November onwards and there is plenty to pick.

The Rivercafe is now moored for the last time this year. Our winter checklist comprises 40 points, which we work through for our winter peace of mind. The Rivercafe will spend the winter in the water, in a small marina in Kefalonia, well guarded by the marvelous marina guys Sharif and Dionysos. The contrast to the marina in Montenegro last winter could not be bigger.

Three seasons in one A sailing season in Greece

Now that the Rivercafe has been winterised, we no longer have to plan routes and check the weather 5 times a day, we have time to reflect on the season. It was nice. Different, but beautiful. Rivercafe was great. Safe and reliable – we are still very happy with the Leopard and – not to be missed – with the anchor upgrade. Greece and the Greeks were a wonderful and pleasant surprise.

Sailing in the Mediterranean could not compete with sailing in the Caribbean and Bahamas. Our low expectations of the underwater world and the sailing ‘social life’ were also fully realised. But ffter a season in the Ionian Sea, we are nevertheless glad to have travelled to Greece. Hellas saved the honour of the Mediterranean for us.

Our almost 6 months in Greece were very different, like three different seasons. A sailing season in Greece

May and June

Our journey from Montenegro took us from the north to the Ionian Islands. I will never forget the first evening and the first retsina wine in the village taverna of Erikousa. The friendliness of the Greeks was amazing and the biggest possible contrast to the Montenegrins.

This early in the season, the sea was still quite fresh at 24-25 degrees, but clear and clean. It also remained clean, with less rubbish and plastic than in Spain, Italy and the Adriatic. The water temperature rose to 29.9 degrees (c) in summer and cooled back down to 25 degrees in October. A sailing season in Greece

In early summer, we found plenty of space at every anchorage. The weather was beautiful almost all the time. The Greeks were in a good mood and very hospitable. We were particularly fond of Erikousa, Corfu and Paxos. Our everyday life was uncomplicated and relaxed. We slowly got used to the fact that we could get food, fuel and whatnot anytime and anywhere without having to plan three islands in advance. Compared to the Caribbean and especially the Bahamas, it was also very cheap. Every visit to a taverna cost half the price of the Bahamas and was much tastier, especially on the northern islands. Despite the ‘guaranteed’ bait from the dealer in Paxos, we didn’t catch a single fish so we had to rely on shops and tavernas.

July-August

Even without looking at the calendar, we could see that the holiday season had begun. Sea and land were filled with countless charter boats and vessels from Italy. Beautiful places do not go unnoticed. Visits to Corfu, Paxos or Lefkada can be forgotten at this time due to overcrowding. In the summer school holidays, we had family visiting us and we ducked into the places that weren’t mentioned in the cruise recommendations. There were plenty of them. The water got really warm and I remember spending the two months in the sea non-stop, sailing back and forth between the islands and the mainland. A sailing s

eason in Greece

September-October

As the summer vacations came to an end, the sailing grounds emptied. However, the weather also became more unpredictable. Some nights became restless or sleepless due to thunderstorms. The weather forecasts became less accurate and instead of 8 knots, the wind sometimes reached 38 knots. We were rarely able to hoist the sails, which was a shame for our friends who were with us during this time. Car hire prices fell from €80/day to €25 and it became normal to ask when the taverna was closing for the winter. A

Sunny autumn days in Sami with our friends Bettina and Ernst

We got to know some likable crews this season, but far fewer than in the Caribbean. Other sailors felt the same way as we did: in the Med it is not customary to stop and chat with your anchored neighbour. Those who were used to it from other regions were happy to see us, but most of them had already got out of the Med habit. Nevertheless, we made a few nice new acquaintances during the season, though fewer than in previous years. It was nice to meet: Marie and Rainer (Charisma, Austria), Helen and Ian (l’Aventure, Australia), Gianluca (Lux), Charlene & Tom (UK-D, Bon Bini), Jane & John (UK, Long Tom), Natasha & Dudley (D-UK, Rubia), Graham (Wild Honey) and Dave. And to see again: Nicole & Trip, Pookie & Heath, Sally & Mark, Lorenz, Walter & Anki, Ruth & Michael…and everyone I don’t have on the list right now. And we miss many friends on the other side of the Atlantic, whose season is about to start again soon.

Haul out in Agia Pelagia, fall everywhere

iischen Meer

Incredible large winter storage facilities, hundreds of vessels stored ashore in Preveza, source: Google Earth

The last winter without a base A sailing season in Greece

No matter where we sail in the world, the weather always gives us an off-season of several months. In Europe, these are the winter months. Ka and I now have one last winter break ahead of us, which we have to bridge by travelling ashore. We are travelling between Germany, Luxembourg and Spain, always staying in condos, hotels or with friends – 5 months of living out of a suitcase. Every year we sail it feels worse not having a place to stay on land. The rental cars, hotels, condos and organisation – we like it less and less. And that’s why we’re changing that now. Next winter we’ll finally have a house again, our own place without suitcases and clutter. We are awaiting building permit every day. In the meantime we’re hoping for a quiet winter for Rivercafe.

Back in Luxembourg, first concert (Chilly Gonzales) in the Philharmonie since….

We’ll continue to write about the winter, even a little off the beaten track. Ka and I would like to thank you for accompanying us in such large numbers again this year. Thank you very much for your loyalty and your feedback, some of which was very funny. It was a pleasure to share our experiences of the season with you. See you soon. /Holger Binz