Children on board and murder in the Caribbean
School holidays are the best time to visit the Rivercafe. Having children on board really livens things up for us. Hannah (9), Henri (13), Jil and Manfred delighted us with their visit, their fourth time here.
I had spent days thinking about which destinations we should head for, depending on the weather and timing. Simple requirements: clear water, calm seas, something to see on land, short distances and, of course, tavernas because we didn’t want to live in the pantry.
Finally, I had a good plan – in my opinion. Then the bridge at Lefkada was closed and I had to rethink my plans again. At some point, Ka had had enough: ‘The kids just need water – nothing else. Let’s find a nice anchorage and you’ll see, it’ll be just right.’ And that’s exactly how it turned out.
The kids landed at Preveza Airport, and after a short trip to Palairos on the mainland, our tender brought our guests on board at the anchorage. The very next morning, we set off for Lefkada. Normally, we give guests a day to settle in, but here in the Ionian Sea, the water is usually so calm that there is no need to get used to the swell. We had also suggested starting a high-dose vitamin C treatment two weeks in advance – as we do with all our guests on board. This is very effective against seasickness. And main reason for the quick departure: avoiding the charter crowds.
We had booked two days in Sivota at the jetty of a former olive mill. Liotrivi is now the most beautiful restaurant in town and one of the few jetties in this bay that you have to pay for – and it’s not a steal. But it is undoubtedly the most beautiful spot in the bay, because you can go into the water there for a swim in clear water. We were allowed to use the private water access of Liotrivi’s owner, Spiros.
The kids splashed around in the water and on the stand-up paddleboards – time flew by. On the second night, an 80-foot sailing yacht and a 120-foot motor yacht moored at our jetty. It’s a miracle the jetty held. For us, it was a sign to leave. Neighbours like that are not pleasant, because they run their generators all night long, making noise and emitting exhaust fumes, they have their underwater lights on, and their charter guests were far too ‘nose-up’ for a summer in Greece and jetty neighbours in flip-flops.
Collision
Before setting sail, we witnessed a violent crash in the bay. A 55-foot yacht anchored in the narrow exit of the bay. Not a good idea, and I can’t think of a worse anchorage in the entire Ionian Sea. Hundreds of vessels pass by the constantly turning anchored vessel every day.
The almost inevitable happened in the morning. A catamaran rammed its bow almost in the middle of the hull of the chic yacht. The result was a huge crack in the hull and screams filling the bay. Probably the end of the season for the monohull. I hope he didn’t have any big plans like an Atlantic crossing in mind.
On the way to water fun
We left Lefkada unmolested and headed for the mainland. On the way, we were able to demonstrate to the kids the results of climate change and overfishing: no fish on our two trolling rods. Henri was left with only his beloved fried anchovies in the taverns.
We anchored twice more and the days in between consisted mainly of water. Jumping in, swimming, jumping in, stand-up paddleboarding, jumping in, air mattresses, jumping in… I’m not sure if I saw webbed feet on the kids in the end, but it’s not out of the question.
The large bay of Palairos was perfect because even when 50 vessels were anchored there, there was still plenty of space. In addition to the clear water, there were beach taverns and ice cream. It was just how you would imagine a summer holiday in Greece on our boat.
We had a very enjoyable time and were delighted to be able to show the kids a little bit of our life (which is normally slightly different).
Our family had perfect timing. During their stay, it was always over 30 degrees and the water was pleasant. Immediately after their departure, it cooled down, became windy and wavy for almost a week. Even the water temperature dropped to 22 degrees. We used the time to do laundry, make water and tidy up.
Invitated by Carine and Frank to their lovely house
Nydri Bay
For us, this marked the beginning of the last part of our sailing season. We sailed from the mainland back to Lefkada, this time to the double bay of Nydri. We had been there briefly last year to wait out the weather. This time, the weather was very calm and we anchored in the rear bay. This is probably the most sheltered bay in the Ionian Sea. The only waves come from small motorboats and the wind is blocked by mountains on all sides – there weren’t even any downdrafts. It’s more like a Swiss mountain lake – just a little warmer. Between 70 and 100 ships anchored with us, and even the high season is bearable here. However, the water is not inviting for swimming, and we did not take on fresh water here either. To maintain our minimum water standard, we often used the pool of a hotel in the bay.
All in Nydri
The muddy bottom of the bay provides perfect anchorage at a depth of 6-7 metres. At night, the silence of the bay and the clear starry sky are incredibly relaxing. Despite the numerous neighbouring anchors, the atmosphere is very relaxed.
The village of Nydri with its countless taverns and bars is just 5 minutes away by dinghy. And with the most iconic Yacht Chanderly in western Greece. The guy must have access to a parallel universe, because in what feels like 20 square metres, there is everything a sailor could need. However, you should be slim when you enter the shop.
During our relaxing days in Nydri, we learned about the conclusion of a tragic event from February last year. Even if we are in the Med now, we are in close contact to friends overseas and out thoughts are very often in the Caribbean.
Addendum to the murder of the Simplicity Crew
In February 2024, I reported that three men from St. Vincent had attacked, kidnapped and murdered Kathleen and Ralph, two super-nice sailing buddies and catamaran sailors. The three perpetrators escaped from prison in Grenada, where they were serving sentences for other offences. They were apprehended shortly after the crime in St. Vincent, and now the trial has concluded. The leader, Ron Mitchel, was sentenced to 86 years in prison. He will be eligible to apply for parole in 50 years at the earliest, when he will be 80 years old. His accomplices, Atiba Stanisclaus and Trevor Robertson, were sentenced to almost similar prison terms.
This won’t bring Kathleen and Ralph back to life. But I hope it sends a message to the criminals among the 100,000 inhabitants of St. Vincent & The Grenadines. And to those responsible for the beautiful St. Vincent’s sad reputation as a criminal and dangerous hotspot in the Caribbean. With a population of 100,000, around 55 people are murdered every year. That is a murder rate 10 times higher than in the United States and 67 times higher than in the European Union. It is little consolation that ‘other’ crime has declined somewhat in recent years.
Such criminals contribute significantly to preventing the development of one of the most beautiful countries in the Caribbean (or the World). Incomes in St. Vincent are the lowest in the Caribbean. The monthly average is 750 USD, but this includes higher-paid civil servants. USD 300-500 per month is realistic if you earn something legally. Every sailor or tourist who stays away makes a difference. And because of that what happened to Kathleen and Ralph, a lot of sailors are staying away.
I hope that the government and the people there will get the problem under control and that in a few years’ time it will be possible to visit this paradise again. /Holger Binz