Five years at the Rivercafe

Sounds like the fifth season of a Netflix series. They only renew them if they’re interesting. So far it’s been very interesting for us and apparently OK for our 30,000 readers, so it’s been renewed.

This was our second winter in Europe and I still find it very disturbing that there are 5 cold and sometimes stormy months a year in the Mediterranean. Even in southern Europe. 12 degrees (C) in the air and 16 degrees in the water is way too cold for us wimps. Our sailing career would certainly have been cut short in the North Sea. So we are left with warm thoughts of the year-round Caribbean and summer in the Mediterranean.

Suffering US friends

Many of our friends are US Americans and most of them are sailing in the Caribbean and the Bahamas. Unfortunately, we were unable to take up any of their kind invitations to ‘come over’ for the winter. But we had a lot to do with consoling them, because all but one of our American friends are terribly embarrassed by the ongoing US freak show. Understandable, because  who else in the world would vote for a convicted felon and clearly unfit individual — someone whose reckless behavior and detachment from reality suggest they belong in a psychiatric facility sooner rather than later? Some or our friends even thinking of emigrating to Europe.

During the winter break

But back to the topic. Rivercafe spent 5 months in the small harbour of Agia Pelagia on the largest island in the Ionian Sea, Kefalonia. Protected from the winter storms by extra fenders and guarded and looked after by Sharif and Dionyssios.

In winter, friendly Kefalonia is a very dead island. I know that’s grammatical nonsense, because ‘dead’ as an absolute adjective has no superlative. But the phrase aptly describes the fact that no one would probably notice if aliens landed on the island between November and April. Kefalonia is an ideal place for contemplation – if you can find a place to stay in winter. Unlike Spain or Florida, there are virtually no snowbirds, the hibernating northerners. The locals keep to themselves, and car hire costs 11 euros a day instead of 75 euros in the summer months.

Ka and I spent most of our winter break 1,800 kilometres away in Spain. At this time of year, travelling from the western to the eastern Mediterranean to a Greek island is a pain. Three plane changes and a 30-hour journey is the norm at this time of year.

After the winter break

We always know exactly what’s happening at the Rivercafe because our systems can be viewed online. Nevertheless, I’m nervous the days before boarding. A vessel is not a car that you can park for a long time. Time, the weather and the sea take their toll on a vessel even more than on a person. It always takes time to check that all the engines, systems and everything necessary for sailing are running properly. It is therefore wise to plan a few maintenance days before departure and not have any visitors on board for the time being.

After a long journey and an hour for the first inspection, my mood brightened and the Rivercafe was in top condition. Part of the sprayhood at the helm was torn by the storm and some fenders were destroyed. The bottom painting worked well and the hull was not heavily overgrown. All engines were running, rigging and sails were fine and ready to sail. The winter damage list was manageable.

We shared the small harbour of Kefalonia with our Canadian/French friends Hilde and René, who are now on their way to Italy. Otherwise, there are only fishing boats and a few other ships ashore. Our social contacts are very limited due to the lack of people. The weather is still far from what comes to mind when we think of Greek weather. The wind is rattling heartily and 10 degrees at night and 16 degrees during the day make life on board very fresh.

As happy as we were with the winter berth, the sailing infrastructure on Kefalonia is frugal. There is no proper yacht chandlery and we have to order everything from SVB in Bremen and have it delivered. Deliveries take at least 10 days. Every local contact is also needed for the craftsmen. To repair our sprayhood, Dionyssios had to search for someone with a sewing machine (and skills) for days and the repair would ultimately take another 10 days.

Before the season

Our plan was to set sail relatively quickly. Now we have no choice, because on our planned route over the next few months, there will be even less or no technical support. So all that remains is to breathe out patiently and accept everything with patience. I can’t believe this sentence came from me.

But just as we had come to terms with the involuntary extension, I got the news that I had to fly to Luxembourg again. My sister passed away unexpectedly and far too soon. The best laid plans only last until they come into contact with reality.

And yet, we have a plan for the season, which can probably only start after Easter. Orthodox (Greece) and Catholic/Evangelical Easter will exceptionally take place at the same time this year. However, it should be warm and Greek as early as next week.

As soon as we can pack up the antifreeze again, we want to sail around the Peloponnese peninsula, into the Bay of Athens and then let’s see. We have Olympia and the Corinth Canal on our list, as well as a few other places. Season 5 of Rivercafe is set on the Greek islands of antiquity. We would be delighted if you would join us /Holger Binz